In The News

Eco Tourism Spotlight on: Exploring the Arctic by sea kayak

by Brian Keating

In the last issue of Eco Tourism Management I wrote about one of two polar tourism programs being conducted in our own Canadian High Arctic. The lodge based Arctic Watch, discussed in the last issue, consisted of a week long program based out of comfortable tent-like structures on Somerset Island. In this issue, I'll be discussing a completely different tourism program which involved an expedition-style sea kayaking trip on Ellesmere Island with the Canmore company, Whitney & Smith.

WalrusIn contrast to the comfortable amenities that one finds in a heated lodge, an expedition style kayaking program obviously caters to a unique market, with the participants searching for a very different kind of wilderness experience. Jane Whitney and Steve Smith are trained biologists who have worked for over a decade in polar regions on various field assignments. Both are enthusiastic naturalists, mountaineers, and wilderness explorers who demonstrate a special type of leadership that can only be found in those who have spent a lifetime exploring natural environments. Their knowledge and obvious commitment to the arctic is one of their greatest assets. They utilize top quality gear capable of withstanding the arctic elements, yet lightweight and compact enough to be transported with clients in one Twin Otter aircraft charter. Taking a maximum of only eight clients, Jane and Steve conduct only one arctic kayaking trip per year. The limited northern summer makes this wilderness oasis available for only a few short weeks.

I had the pleasure of joining their Ellesmere Island sea kayaking trip last August. We flew by commercial aircraft to Resolute Bay on Cornwallis Island where our chartered Twin Otter was ready and waiting. Two hours later we were on a remote airstrip on the east coast of Ellesmere Island. The landscape was stunningly beautiful, with steep fjord walls, calm waters reflecting icebergs, and glaciers bulging out of every drainage.

During the next two weeks we moved camp nearly every day and gradually paddled our way northward. In true expeditionary style, our route was altered daily, as sea ice dictated where we could and couldn't go. Our journey took us through an incredible landscape of majestic beauty, through cathedrals of ice, allowing us numerous opportunities to observe walrus, narwhals, ringed and bearded seal, and a variety of birds close up. On land, hiking opportunities were limited only by the amount of sleep one needed. The 24 hour sunlight encouraged late night walks to explore inland for caribou and musk ox.

Nearly every time we landed and walked ashore, we encountered archaeological evidence of the Thule culture. These remarkable people disappeared from this region perhaps as late as 1650 AD. A number of sites have been excavated, allowing us to understand the construction methods used to create their winter homes. These structures were dug down into the permafrost, lined with flat rocks, and roofed with skin covered whale bones. They were essential for survival in the harsh arctic winter, a time of continual darkness and sub zero temperatures. The Thule adapted to these conditions, refining their techniques of hunting sea mammals, utilizing the oils as fuel for hear and light, and the rich blubber and meat for sustenance.

One part of our journey took us into a fjord that likely had never been paddled by modern man. Because the ice had not formed to its usual thickness the previous winter, and because wind conditions were favorable for us, the ice plug that usually choked this particular fjord broke up before our arrival. This gave us the special opportunity to explore the coastline and to hike inland on tundra and encounter musk ox that perhaps had never seen people before. Because the landscape is relatively untouched by modern man, operators need to practice their tourism business with the least amount of impact on the land.

In places as untouched as this, I realized how easily we could leave evidence of our passing. Jane and Steve made certain that everyone understood the concept of no trace camping throughout the trip. Archaeological sites were treated with exceptional care, and wildlife approaches were conducted with the interests of the animals in mind, ensuring our presence impacted in the smallest way possible. For example, walrus remained lying on ice floes where we found them, as we paddled very carefully for a closer look, then silently drifted away. Bird colonies were observed through a spotting scope from a nearby cliff, or from the comfort of our kayaks in the sea, thus keeping our distance. A gyrfalcon nesting site was approached with caution, only after we had lunch on the beach in full view of the rare birds, to acclimatize them to our presence. Because of Jane and Steve's professional working knowledge of the animals we saw, detailed discussions on arctic ecology followed every encounter, adding to the experience.

Expeditionary tripping gives the eco-traveller a very special sense of control and accomplishment. Dismantling your camp and paddling under your own power to distant locations enables you to feel independent, yet safe, with the confident guidance of professionals. Never before has the arctic been so accessible for people willing to explore such remote regions. Until recently, there were no systems in place allowing for these experiences, and because the brief arctic summer is the only available comfortable window of time, the opportunities are limited to only a handful of people per year. For the eco-traveller looking for quality wilderness, our Canadian High Arctic backyard offers unparalleled opportunities.

As tourism grows, as no doubt it will in our arctic landscape, the need to practice an ecologically sound tourism program will become increasingly more important. What a pleasure to know that companies like Whitney & Smith are setting the standards.

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